Hi Guys!
Urutan filter:
1. pertama pakailah pre-filter untuk lubang inhaust (sedot) filter anda , umpama anda pake Eheim atau powerhead, coba ditambahkan foam filter ( beli jadi) dijamin ukuran lubangnya pas, Ini supaya filter ga cepat kotor /mampet, tiap 2 hari pas ganti 25% air ,tinggal kita sedot kotoran2 yg nempel di foam-nya, lbh efisien
2.Urutan pertama di filter utama adalah bioball atau ceramic ting atau dua2nya, fungsinya biakan bakteri pengurai. bakteri ini akan aktif maximal setelah 2 minggu atau dipercepat dgn menambahkan biakan bakteri dlm botolan.
3.Urutan kedua baru pakai wool,cari yg agak kasar
4.Urutan ketiga pakai aktif karbon.
5.Urutan keempat pakai wool kapas halus
6.urutan kelima pake Zeolit granule
7.Urutan keenam pake wool kapas halus.
Activated karbon dijamin ga menimbulkan luka atau infeksi pada ikan,
Cobalah hobyist2 untuk lbh berpikir ilmiah dan kritis, arang itu sifatnya penyerap, bukan kimia yg membunuh bakteri, sifatnya hanya menampung zat2 apapun yg melewatinya. Mungkin jika menggunakan arang biasa ada kayu yg blm 100% jadi arang dan membusuk, mengakibatkan timbulnya bakteri.
Atau arang diapakai lama sekali sehingga terjadi reverse cycle dimana toxic2 yg sudah diserap dilepas balik lagi.
Saran saya plg aman pakai activated carbon ( lbh aman krn sudah membatu) tdk ada kemungkinan reverse cycle.
Zeolit juga harus diganti secara periodik atau akan ada reverse cycle amonia ke air lagi.
Tips: Zeolit bekas filter sangat kaya amonia dan baik utk media hydroponik

good input, Pal...
filter saya juga pakai activated carbon and so far gak ada masalah dg aro saya.

saya ada pertanyaan, berapa lama kira-2 bagusnya media filter tsb di bersihkan, karena bio ball dan ceramic ring nya lama kelamaan akan kotor dan menguning. Apakah nanti kalau kita bersihkan akan merusak ekosistem bakteri pengurai yang sudah terbentuk?

terima kasih

salam,
OPAL

Hi Opal,
Ok, utk activated karbon, kalo mau tepat kapan penggantiannya, timbang berat sebelum di pakai ( tapi basahi dulu dgn air) lalu mungkin 2 bln kemudian ditimbang lagi, kalo sudah naik s.d. lebih 25-30% berarti udah jenuh, harus ganti.
Kalo zeolit , saya ga tau tepatnya kapan, tapi berhubung ga mahal ya ganti aja tiap cuci filter, limbahnya tanam buat hydroponik. Zeolit bisa dicharge dgn air garam jenuh, tapi repot mak! murahan ganti baru.
Media bioball dan ceramic ring biarkan aja jangan diutak atik kalo udah "matang" , warna ga pengaruh, jgn dicuci sama sekali. ganti wool kapasnya, zeolit dan arang saja,

Diperinci donk perbandingan masing2 bahan tersebut, dan berapa keperluannya thd mis :1000ltr air
Carbon Aktifnya, Zeolit, Kapas etc, etc ? % biar kita2 tambah jelas nich bung Jurgen.

Jurgen Dylan Winata
Posted: June 26 2003,09:21
Ada yg tau huso huso? kabarin kalo ada yg jual ya?

Kemarin saya lht +/- 15-20cm harganya Rp.125rb an di Toko AQ di Bandung. Mereka bilangnya sich UZO-UZO.

Untuk volume kapas, zeolit , arang dsb, tidak ada ukuran baku tuk pemakaian air volume sekian liter gitu,
Tapi mungkin tips ini bisa dipakai,
Gunakan filter dgn kapasitas rate of flownya dalam 1 jam 2,5 s.d 3 kali volume aquarium anda, Contoh aquarium 300lter pakailah filter 900l/jam atau pakai 2 filter yg 450l/jam
Nah masing2 khan punya pilihan filter yg beda2 khan? tiap filer apapun yg and pilih biasanya punya aturan dan saran pemakaian jumlah medianya berapa banyak, nah ikutin aja deh, kalau urutan yg saya tulis itu supaya ga terbalik, filter harus urutan mekanis, biologis dan baru kimia.
Pake media kebanyakan pun ga apa2 jg lebh lama expired time-nya

Thanks u - thanks u Bung Jurgen, hal lain lagi nich, ditoko AQ biasa dijual Bakteri Starter, yg mau saya tanya itu bakteri bisa hidup dikemasan botol segitu lama...?
Biasanya sich untuk recycling AQ baru, saya pakai media dr filter AQ lama buat pancingannya, nach cepet mana yach ?
Kalau Artemia sich ngerti ....knp bisa tahan lama, kalau bakteri dlm botol.... perlu pencerahan nich ....

Bunga Arowana, saya sempat lihat uso-uso (kalau ngak salah tulis) di kartini. Dulu tokonya pas sebelah atm bca. Tapi denger2x dia mau pindah di seberangnya. Wah toko itu banyak ikan raksasa2x-nya ada arapaima segede kaki orang dewasa.

Bunga Cung, pernah lihat yg jual Freshwater stingrays (=Motoro, Polka dot, dll ) dimana ya ?

Ga tau ya gimana bisa tahan, tapi saya beli yg aquamedi, kelihatan udah stok lama, saya iseng bawa ke teman yg punya lab, ditest lab ( kayak Prodia) , eh ada bakterinya lho, banyak lg typenya. ga tau gimana cara mereka survive dalam ekologi tertutup gitu.
Saya cuma beli beberapa botol, saya buat biakannya pake air sumur dan rendaman ketapang ( humic acid ) , air biakan ini dimasukan utk rendam bioball dan ceramic ring filter.

http://www.o-fish.com/KualitasAir/NewTankSyndrome.htm :
Tumbuhnya bakteri pengurai amonia didalam akuarium memerlukan waktu dari beberapa hari hingga beberapa minggu. Dua jenis bakteri diketahui berperan dalam proses penguraian ini yaitu bakteri nitrosomonas (bakteri yang berperan dalam pengubahan amonium menjadi nitrit), dan bakteri nitrobakter (yaitu bakteri yang berperan dalam pengubahan nitrit menjadi nitrat). Pertumbuhan bakteri nitrosomonas secara alamiah dipicu oleh kehadiran amonia sebagai sumber makanannya. Sebelum bakeri ini tumbuh, amonia akan terus berakumulasi dalam akuarium. Apabila nitrosomonas mulai tumbuh, secara perlahan kadar amonia akan menurun. Hal disebabkan karena amonia tersebut mulai dikonsumsi oleh bakteri nitrosomonas. Laju penurunan selanjutnya akan ditentukan oleh laju perkembangan bakteri ini. Pada saat nitrit terbentuk dan mulai berakumulasi, bakteri berikutnya (nitrobakter) mulai tumbuh dan mulai mengkonsumsinya, serta menguraikannya menjadi nitrat. Akibatnya nitrit yang berakumulasi akan menurun dan digantikan oleh peningkatan nitrat.
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Bung Jurgen yg Aquamedi itu bakteri yg mana ya ? Nitrosomonas atau Nitrobakter.
Kalau buat Setup New Tank mana yg lebih dulu dipakai Nitrosomonas atau Nitrobakter ?
Krn kalau dimasukin Nitrosomonas, Amonia nya masih sedikit (=ikan blm masuk).
Trus hubungannya sama Batu Zeolit sifatnya menyerap Amonia khan? berarti Nitrosomonas nya mati krn ndak ada makanan.
Aduu..h jadi bingung nich ....

Akhirnya ketemu juga artikelnya ....
Cuma urusan Zeolit yg nyerap Amonia masih ndak jelas ...
Puyeng ... puyeng, bantu donk ...?

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Nitrite-peak

An aquarium does not function with water, substrate, plants, fish and food alone.

No, it needs a lot of microorganisms, especially bacteria.

To grasp that fully, one has to understand the nitrogen cycle. 70% of the atmosphere consists of nitrogen (N2), which plays a subordinate role in the biological system. Nitrogen is also a part of many organic STOFFE in the animal and plant worlds, which many consist of protein, nucleic acids (DNA and others) and a number of other substances. This organic bonded nitrogen exists in nature as well in the lifecycle of an aquarium.

In short: Fish eat nitrogen-containing food, they expel any surplus nitrogen as ammonium. Bacteria turn that into nitrite. Then other bacteria turn nitrite into nitrate.

Plants subsequently absorb it, which makes them grow.

It is mainly the protein we are concerned about. Protein is long-chained substance, which consist of many building blocks, the so-called amino acids. The amino acids consist of the following:

HOOC-CHR-NHH

Whereby

N = nitrogen

C = carbon

O = oxygen

H = hydrogen

R = the Rest, which differ depending on the amino acid

When Fish eat protein, which every food contains, then one part of the amino acid will be used directly and the other part will not. This other part, which cannot be transformed animal body, will be shed if possible. The substances, which contain nitrogen and subsequently shed, are:

Ammonium = NH4+ (water living animals)

Urea by land living animals, which don’t suffer from lack of water (mammals)

Urine by land living animals, which have to live with a lack of water (birds, reptiles)

When we talk about fish, water living animals, do we have to think about ammonium. Which, by itself is a non-poisonous substance, but depending on the acid value (pH) can the ammonium become a very poisonous substance, called ammonia. Simplified

pH value > 7 = ammonia

pH value < t = ammonium

This uncertainty, when which one is there and will be poisonous or not, brings a certain instability into the aquarium and also other natural water. To prevent that, nature has come up with organisms, which will catch that substance and transform it.

We are talking here about bacteria, which are called nitrosomonas.

Nitrosomonas convert ammonium/ammonia (NH4+ or NH3) into nitrite (NO2-)

Nitrite is also poisonous for fish, so a different bacteria, called nitrobacter, which absorbs nitrite. It changes nitrite (NO2-) into nitrate (NO3-). Compared to nitrite, nitrate is relative less poisonous.

Summarized:

Protein->amino acid ->ammonium/ammonia -> nitrite -> nitrate

All three products (ammonium, nitrite, nitrate) are plant usable substances, plants absorb them and produce protein.

That means, an aquarium can only successfully function if enough amount of bacteria, nitrosomonas and nitrobacter are in it. They live in filters, in the substrate and to a small extent a so-called bio-film on plants, decorations etc.

Well, that sounds easy, why is there a nitrite-peak?

First, one has to envisage a newly erected aquarium. One goes to the shop, buys a tank, top, substrate, plants and sets up the aquarium. In this tank are only a very small amount of bacteria, which, were introduced by the plants. The bacteria have to acclimatize themselves, they have to find new substrates and they need enough food in order to live and grow.

Food will also be found in a fishless aquarium, albeit a few. The plant roots disintegrate, more or less also a plant-leaf. Sometimes one introduces a snail, which eats and then sheds ammonium.

That means ammonium/ammonia is in small amounts. On that feeding basis, can the bacteria nitrosomonas start to grow, food is there for them, but not for the bacteria nitrobacter (they need nitrite), for them there is no food. The end-result is that the bacteria nitrosomonas grow and flourish, but not for nitrobacter (they need nitrite), for them there is no food there, yet. The first bacteria (nitrosomonas) grow and the second bacteria (nitrobacter), stagnates. The nitrosomonas bacteria shed as a result nitrite, which stays in the water and it is measurable. That is the nitrite peak. Only when there is enough nitrite can nitrobacter bacteria develop, absorb nitrite and change it with growth into nitrate. The nitrite peak disappears.

The consequence in chronological order:

It begins with the decomposition and fish waste (ammonium/ammonia)
Nitrosomonas bacteria start to grow and absorb ammonia/ammonium.
They produce nitrite.
Nitrobacter bacteria start to grow and absorb nitrite.
They in turn produce nitrate
Plants, when they grow well, absorb all three substances.

That development sequence is inevitable. I.e. It follows every new tank set-up.

The nitrite-peak is inevitable and will always happen. One cannot say when or how big the nitrite-peak will be. Measurements, on different aquariums show that the nitrite-peak between the 2nd and 5th week happens.

After that, one can begin to populate the tank with fish.

Caution: The bacteria from the before mentioned examples not only depend on the water quality but also on the amount of fish. The bacteria have to acclimatize itself to the fish also. That means, in a normal well maintained aquarium, when suddenly a lot of fish are introduced, a nitrite-peak can later also occur. -From my own experiences. The introduction of fish in a new or established tank should only be done gradually.

Signs of nitrite poisoning:

Quick breathing.
If fish stay at the surface even though there is good filtering and air supply.
Sudden dying of fish without apparent symptoms. Sometimes before dying the fish sway or turn around their own axis.

Quick breathing and staying on the surface in an oxygen rich aquarium is a direct sign of poisoning, mostly nitrite, sometimes, other substances are at fault.

What to do when in an established aquarium the nitrite-peak occurs:

Keep calm.
Immediate 50% water change.
Measure nitrite. At least twice a day. If over .5 mg/l
Then another 50% water change. Depending on the nitrite value, it is possible to change more water. If it is 1.6 mg/l then even 75% in one go.
The nitrite-peak lasts about 1 week on average. Own experience.
After that, the nitrite value sinks suddenly, because there are enough nitrobacter bacteria, which change the nitrite into nitrate. If the nitrite value does not diminish after 1 week, then there are other problems in the tank. Which is very seldom.

A water change always lowers the nitrite value, because there is only a miniscule amount in tap water. It is also poisonous for humans.

Sometimes the argument surfaces that with water change you also reduce the amount of bacteria. That is wrong, or at least not 100% correct. The nitrosomonas and nitrobacter bacteria adhere live on substrate; they don’t just float in the water. So even a big water change would not reduce the amount of bacteria, which is of any concern.

What is a bacteria starter?

I never used them, therefore cannot make personal comments. Articles on some forums indicate the success and failures of such. Both can happen. Why, it is hard to say, because each product is different, the concentration of bacteria differ or the products could be out of date.

Consequently, don’t depend entirely on bacteria starters, which has another reason.

The bacteria, the ones we are talking about live substrate-bound, i.e.…when we empty the bottle into the aquarium, the bacteria has to find first a suitable substrate, bind themselves there and then they can start with the metabolism and subsequent multiplying. Even that takes time. Some manufacturers claim 24 hrs. To me that sounds a bit vague. Because of the different aquariums/setups etc.

Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t………..


Copyright R. Rombach. (2001)

This article was originally published in Zierfisch-Forum under the following link:

Nitritpeak im Zierfisch-Forum

Translated from German to English by John Fichtl with the permission of the author.

Dr. Ralf Rombach
Rech, Germany

He he he mas Aro koq bingung sich, coba mas baca lagi urutan filter media, coba kenapa harus bioball dan ceramics ring dulu urutannya baru setelah itu zeolit atau arang?
udah masuk logikanya? urutannya demikian dgn maksud sbb:
1. Bio ball dan ceramics ring fungsinya adalah media dgn luas permukaan penampang yg luas dlm bentuk mini labyrinth berfungsi utk tempat biakan dgn volume maksimal dlm filter air,
2. Diletakkan seblm zeolit agar bisa lbh dahulu mengurai amonia dan zat2 lain yg tidak diinginkan, perlu diingat baik bakteri pengurai dan zeolit tidak dapat mengurai 100% kandungan amonia dalam aquarium, demikian juga kadar amonia pun akan terakumulasi terus dlm siklus aquarium. Jadi sinergi kedua system ini (biological dan chemical) diharapkan dapat lebih optimum.
3. Filter hanya berfungsi memaksimalkan lama interval penggantian air, tapi cara terbaik meminimalkan kadar amonia ya dgn mengganti air secara rutin.
Dalam Aquamedi ada 7 jenis bakteri (namanya ada di hasil test) tapi saya ga bawa kertasnya, bagaimana mereka bisa hidup tanpa amonia, jujur aja saya belum sempat nanya sama bakterinya, jadi saya ga tahu.
Tapi jgn khwatir, bakteri pengurai ini, otomatis akan ada sendiri dlm filter atau aquarium, selama tidak disterilkan dgn obat (pK dsb) , Ozone treatment atau UV sterilizer.
BTW untuk memacu perkembangan biobakteri ini biasanya pH air diturunkan ke level 6.5.
Jadi kesimpulannya tetap cara plg baik menyehatkan air dgn rutin ganti air.
Saya pernah experimen , aquarium kecil 120cmX60cmX50cm pake filter sbb:
5 buah Biological filter resun @ 900l/jam
1 buah EHeim 2215 @ 620l/jam
1 buah internal filter RS2500 @ 1200l/jam
1 buah EHeim proII 20 @ 950l/jam
1 buah filter ion exchange resin @ 900l/jam
Semua intakenya dipasangi pre-filter, saya atur 2 filter khusus zeolit saja, 2 filter khusus arang saja, 1 filter khusus wool saja, filter2 besar utk biological system lengkap, ceramic ringnya pake yg Japan punya merk PowerHouse, dasar aquarium pake undergravel bed, pokoknya sampe ga ada ruangan lagi buat naruh filter, bayangin rate of flownya 8170l/jam utk aquarium 350l , air tersirkulasi 23kali dalam 1jam.
Buat experimen, memang sih aquariumnya bening terus, tapi stlah 4 bulan tanpa ganti air , kadar nitrat dan nitritnya (ditest pake Tetra test kit) pada level stabil ga turun2, jadi kesimpulannya tetap aja ganti air harus dilakukan.
Nanti lihat ya saya lagi bikin aquarium 350cmX150cmX120cm , nanti filternya seukuran 2 bathtub saya set dibawahnya pake system multi chamber plus ozonizer dan UV steril, ozonizer saya pesan yg Hagen kapasitas besar dan UV strilizer industrial punya, nanti gitu jadi saya fotoin buat gallery.

Hi...JD ane cuma mau sharing nih....!!!!

tergantung, air datang dari mana, atas atau bawah. kalau air datang dari bawah kemudian dipompa keatas (seperti prinsip kerja canister filter), akan memiliki hasil yang lebih baik daripada air datng dari atas ke bawah. ini dikarenakan oleh gravitasi. kotoran yg tertampung dibawah akan lebih sukar utk naik.
kembali ke topik. saya akan menjelaskan untuk yang aliran airnya dari bawah. lapisan paling dasar, gunakanlah bahan yng dpt memecah partikel lebih besar menjadi partikel yng lbh kecil. dalam hal ini anda dpt menggunakan ceramic ring yg banyak dijual di toko ikan n aquarium. lapisan berikutnya adalah lapisan yng dpt menahan laju partikel yg lebih kecil tsb. contohnya adalah coarse filter pad (biasanya berwarna biru). lapisan berikutnya adalah lapisan filter biologis. disini anda harus menggunakan media yang keras dan berpori banyak. contohnya adalah bioball. lapisan terakhir, atau teratas adalah lapisan yg digunakan untuk mencegah kembali partikel yng paling halus sekalipun utk kembali ke aquarium anda. contohnya adalah kapas filter biasa (yg warnanya putih).
medianya adalah ceramic ring, coarse filter pad, bio ball, fine filter pad.
1. ceramic rings fungsinya utk memecah kotoran yg lebih besar menjadi kotoran yg lebih kecil.
2. coarse filter pad fungsinya utk menahan kotoran yg lebih kecil tsb agar tidak memasukki daerah biologis filter.
3. bio balls fungsinya utk media kultur bakteri nitrosomonas dan nitrobacter.
4. fine filter pad utk memastikan kalau air yg akan menuju aquarium kembali tdk mengandung kotoran apapun juga (teorinya). (Sumber : forum1.o-fish.com)

Klau ane lihat disini ada perbedaan guna/susunan antara ceramic rings & bio balls nih....

bisa pencerahannye...


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Siluk_

Bner mas Ar,
urutan mekanis dari filter biologisnya memang begitu,
maksudku di message sebelum ini adalah jawaban atas kenapa urutan media filter harus biologis dulu baru chemical, karena agar sempat diurai dulu sebelum kena saring lagi.
Kalo yg anda uraikan memang ttg mekanisme urutan besaran medium filter agar ga salah saring, tapi ingat teori volume, untuk memaksimalkan kerja filter faktor yg paling penting adalah besaran volume filter tsb (dgn urutan yg benar) EHeim ProII 2028 menggunakan pompa yg sama dgn 2026 tapi dgn volume filtrasi hampir 2 kali lipat, efisiensinya hampir 3X lipat untuk biological filter.
BTW sekarang ada diatom filter untuk tahap akhir sekali, harganya mahal banget, saya udah pesan lg on the way.
Juga ada biofilter tercanggih pakai fluidbed, very low rate flow tapi bner2 denitrifikasi.
Saya ada liat di Aquaworld di luar, semua aquariumnya pake filter jadi satu , ruangannya segede lapangan volleyball, pake chamber2 transparant, recycle total 18 tahap penyaringan,
gila2an, gue rencana mau bikin seperti itu tapi beberapa system masih harus cari supplier di luar.

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Kalo yg anda uraikan memang ttg mekanisme urutan besaran medium filter agar ga salah saring, tapi ingat teori volume, untuk memaksimalkan kerja filter faktor yg paling penting adalah besaran volume filter tsb (dgn urutan yg benar) [/quote]<span id='postcolor'>Ok deh......thks


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Siluk_